I figure it out...

...So you don't have to.

I decided to make socks in men's size 13, using the toe-up construction. I've had some yarn set aside for this project for over a year, a very nice Patons Kroy Jacquards called "Country Jacquard" of browns, blue, and grey & white. Here is the formula:

1. Knit a gauge swatch in the round or observe the gauge on a sock previously knit using the same needles, yarn type, and stitch pattern as you intend to use.

2. Measure foot circumference. Look-up number of stitches needed in a chart, such as the one in Charlene Schurch's More Sensational Knitted Socks. Note that an online Sock-u-lator originally told me to cast-on 90 stitches, but Schurch's chart said 72 stitches. I cast-on 72 stitches, and the sock fits quite well.

3. Choose a toe from Tiptop Toes on Knitty, which includes good directions and pictures for three types of toe-up toes. I tried the Short Row toe, but eventually frogged in favor of the Figure Eight toe. Note: When the pattern says "k1, make 1" or "make 1, k1," I did "kfb (knit front and back)" instead, since I find make 1 to result in larger holes than I prefer. I also disregarded the dpn business and just did kfb at the beginning and end of two circulars.

4. Knit the length of the foot to "the front of the ankle." It is about 2/3 of the total length of the foot from toe tip to the back of the heel. This video is useful.

5. Knit the gusset increases and heel "patch" from Fleegle. Note that when the pattern says "k2, increase 1" or "increase 1, k2," I knit "k1, kfb" and "kfb, k1" instead.

6. Knit the leg of the sock as long as you desire.

7. Bind off using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind off. Toe-up socks need a good stretchy bind off at the cuff, and this one is easy to follow. Note that you should "keep things loose" somewhat, otherwise you will have problems passing the stitches over one another.

-吴碧芙